2016-12-29 WSET 3 葡萄酒的门徒
WATER
What a vine needs
The vine needs water for photosynthesis, to give rigidity to its shoots and leaves, to regulate its temperature and to swell its grapes. It accesses water through its roots and, in a process known astranspiration, water is drawn up to the leaves. The amount of water a vine uses is determined by the temperature. As it gets warmer, the vine’s metabolism accelerates and therefore so do its water needs.
水
葡萄植株的需求
葡萄植株需要水分来进行光合作用，以强固新枝与叶片，调节植株的温度以及增大葡萄果实。葡萄通过根系吸收水分，通过蒸腾作用 （ transpiration）将水分向上运输到叶片。葡萄植株消耗的水分量由当时的环境温度所决定。当温度升高时，葡萄树新陈代谢的速度会加快，这时候植株所需要的水分也更多。
Once a sufficient canopy of leaves has grown, mild water stress is therefore beneficial to grape ripening. In these conditions the vine has enough water to keep photosynthesising but the shortage of water is sufficient to switch a vine’s glucose resources from shoot growth to grape ripening. This has the added advantage of reducing the impact of shading.
叶片数量充足的植株树冠一旦形成，轻微的缺水反而有利于葡萄果实的成熟。在这种情况下，葡萄植株已经有足够的水分来维持光合作用的进行，而轻微的缺水能将植株的葡萄糖资源从新枝的生长上转移到果实成熟上来。这是减少遮阴影响的另外好处。
Precipitation
The timing as well as the amount of the rainfall is important. Flowering and fruit set can both be disrupted by heavy rainfall and this can significantly reduce the number of grapes that are formed. Damp conditions that follow rainfall also encourage fungal infection. Heavy rain shortly before harvest time can cause the berries to swell excessively. This dilutes the flavours in the wine they produced and in extreme cases berries can split, which attracts fungal disease.
降水量
降水量和降水时间都极为重要。暴雨可能会干扰葡萄植株开花和坐果，导致最终形成的果实数量急剧减少。降雨后的潮湿环境也增加了真菌感染的可能性。即将收获前的大暴雨会使葡萄果实过度膨胀。这会导致酒的风味被稀释，极端情况下果实还会裂开，容易感染真菌病。
Irrigation
Rainfall is the most important source of water but if it is insufficient then it can be supplemented with irrigation if local laws permit. There are three main techniques.Drip irrigation is the most advanced and expensive. Each vine has its own dripper that can be computer controlled to ensure that each vine gets the optimum amount of water.Sprinklers are still widely used and cheaper than drip irrigation but they waste a lot of water and, like rain, they create damp conditions in the vineyard increasing the risk of disease. If correctly designed, sprinklers can also be used in frost protection.Flood irrigation is very cheap to use but is only possible in vineyards that are flat or very gently sloping and where there is access to large quantities of water, as in Chile and Argentina.
灌溉
降雨是最重要的水分来源，但是当降水不充足时，如果当地的法律允许，可以用灌溉来补充水分的供给。主要有三种灌溉技术：滴灌（Drip irrigation）是最为先进也是最昂贵的灌溉方式。每一棵葡萄植株都有自己的滴头，这些滴头由电脑控制，确保每一棵葡萄树都能获得最佳的供水量。喷灌（Sprinklers）仍然在广泛应用，并且比滴管要便宜，但是这种灌溉方式会浪费很多水，像降雨一样，喷灌会造成葡萄园中潮湿的环境从而增加病害的可能性。如果设计合理，喷灌也可以用来预防霜冻。大水浸灌（Flood irrigation）是非常便宜的灌溉方式，但只能用在例如智利和阿根廷这些坡度非常平缓又可以获得大量水资源的葡萄园。
Water Hazards
If there is a water shortage the vine can temporarily stop transpiration in order to preserve its resources. During prolonged shortages or drought, vines suffer from water stress. Photosynthesis can stop, leaves wilt and grapes fail to ripen. Ultimately this can weaken and kill a vine.
水灾害
如果葡萄植株处在缺水的状况下，它就会暂时停止蒸发作用来储存水资源。如果水分缺失的时间延长或发生干旱，葡萄就会因缺水而受损。这时，光合作用就会停止，叶片萎蔫，葡萄果实也无法成熟。长时间的缺水会最终会导致葡萄植株变弱和死亡。
If the vine has access to too much water during the growing season it will promote excessive vegetative growth. The continuing growth of the shoots and leaves diverts glucose from the ripening grapes, and the excess shoots and leaves increase the risk of shading and potentially impede grape ripening.
如果葡萄植株在生长季获得了过多的水资源，就会导致葡萄植株，枝叶过度生长，新梢渔业片的持续生长会将，共铺头果实成熟的葡萄糖转移到，枝叶生长上来，并且过多的新址雨夜片还会增加挡光的风险性，继而可能阻碍果实的成熟。
Excess rainfall towards the end of the growing season can create damp conditions that increase the likelihood of rot. It can also lead to berries expanding, diluting their flavours, and bursting, leading to fungal and bacterial infection.
葡萄生长季将近结束时，过量的降雨会造成环境潮湿，增加了葡萄腐烂的可能性。它还会使葡萄果实膨胀，稀释了风味甚至使得果实胀破，进而引起真菌或是细菌的感染。
Summer hail is another worry for the viticulturalist. It can damage grapes and even the vine itself. In the worst cases it can destroy an entire crop. Some areas, such as Mendoza in Argentina are particularly prone to hail. In certain vineyards netting is used to protect the vines. Elsewhere, aircraft and rockets are used to seed potential storm clouds with chemicals to ensure that the water falls as rain, rather than hail.
夏季冰雹是让葡萄种植者担忧的另一种灾害。它会破坏葡萄果实甚至是植株本身。在最糟糕的情况下，它会摧毁整片作物。有些地区，例如阿根廷的门多萨，就特别容易遭遇冰雹。一些葡萄园会使用结网的方式来保护葡萄植株。另一些地区，人们会用飞机和高空烟火向潜在的风暴云撒化学物质，确保其转化为降雨，以免降下冰雹。
CLIMATE CLASSIFICATION
For the purposes of consistency in this book a region’s temperature will be defined using the average temperature during the growing season, which is April to October in the northern hemisphere and October to April in the southern hemisphere. For simplicity, the following temperature terms will be used:
气候分类
为了保持本书的一致性，每个地区的温度以当地生长季的平均温度来定义，北半球的生长季是从4月到10月，南半球的生长季是10月到来年4月。为简单起见，下面这些关于温度的术语会经常被用到：
Cool: regions with an average growing season temperature of 16.5℃ or below.
Moderate: regions with an average growing season temperature of 16.5℃ to 18.5℃.
Warm: regions with an average growing season temperature of 18.5℃ to 21℃.
Hot: regions with an average growing season temperature in excess of 21℃. Hot areas are generally unsuitable for viticulture.
凉爽：生长季的平均温度在16.5℃或更低。
温和：生长季的平均温度在16.5℃至18.5℃。
温暖：生长季的平均温度在18.5℃至21℃。
炎热：生长季的平均温度在21℃以上。炎热地区通常情况下不适合种植葡萄。
These give a good approximate guide to which grapes can be successfully ripened in any given region but climate classifications also need to incorporate how the temperature varies throughout the year (continentality) or during a typical day (diurnal range), and also the level and timing of rainfall and sunlight. For consistency throughout this book the following three climate categories will be used. They can take into account the temperature categories of cool, moderate and warm as well as a region’s continentality, sunlight and rainfall.
以上内容就哪些品种的葡萄可以在一个地区顺利成熟提供了大致指南，不过气候分类还需要结合考虑全年温度如何变化（大陆度）或一天中的温度变化（昼夜温差），降雨量和降雨时间，以及阳光强度的照射时间。为了整本书的一致性，下面三种气候分类会经常用到。这三类分类考虑到了凉爽、温和、温暖的温度类别，以及一个地区的大陆度、阳光与降雨情况。
Continental Climate– These climates have the greatest difference in temperature between the hottest and coldest months and are usually characterised by short summers with a large, rapid temperature drop in autumn. Cool continental climates such as Germany and Champagne are at risk from spring frost and low temperatures throughout the growing season can affect flowering, fruit set and ripening. They are therefore better suited to varieties that bud late and ripen early. In moderate continental climates such as the Niagara Peninsula, summers are sufficiently hot to ripen grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon in a relatively short growing season. Continental climates are also noted for having very dry summers and so if the temperature is high then irrigation can be necessary.
大陆性气候 – 在这种气候条件下，最炎热与最寒冷的月份之间的温度差异最为显著，典型特征还包括夏季非常短暂，秋季降温迅速且幅度大。例如德国和香槟区这些处于凉爽的大陆性气候的地区，容易遭受春季霜冻，并且在整个生长季的温度较低还会影响葡萄的开花、坐果以及成熟。因此，这样的气候条件适合种植哪些发芽较晚、成熟较早的葡萄品种。而像尼亚加拉半岛这种处于温和的大陆性气候的地区，在相对较短的生长季内夏季的温度会高到足以使赤霞珠这样的品种成熟。大陆性气候还有一个显著特征，就是夏季非常干燥，所以当温度高时灌溉就很有必要。
Maritime Climate– Maritime climates are characterised by cool to moderate temperatures and a low annual difference between the hottest and coldest months. Rainfall tends to be evenly spread throughout the year, which helps in moderating the temperature and the light levels. This means, as in the case of Bordeaux, that the growing season can often continue far into autumn, ensuring there is enough warmth in the growing season to ripen Cabernet, which might otherwise struggle to ripen at this latitude. However, the spring and summer rain can be a very significant risk to the flowering, fruit set and the health of the grapes at harvest.
海洋性气候 – 海洋性气候特征是温度凉爽或温和，全年中最炎热与最寒冷月份的温度差异小。全年的降雨量分布均匀，这有利于调节温度和日照强度。这意味着在像波尔多这样的地区，生长季可以一直持续到秋天，为赤霞珠这类葡萄的成熟提供了足够的热量，而在相同纬度其它地区这类葡萄品种的成熟会很困难。然而，春季和夏季的降雨会给开花，坐果以及成熟期果实的健康状况带来极大的风险。
Mediterranean Climate– Mediterranean climates are also characterised by a low temperature difference between the hottest and coldest months but the summers tend to be warm and dry. These conditions are to be found throughout the Mediterranean as well as much of coastal California, Chile, South-Eastern Australia and the Cape Winelands. The extra warmth and sunlight compared with maritime climates leads to wines that are fuller bodied, with riper tannins, higher alcohol and lower acid. The lower rainfall can have a positive effect on the health of the grapes but can also lead to drought.
地中海气候 – 地中海气候的典型特征是最炎热的月份与最寒冷的月份之间的温度差异大，但夏季温暖而干燥。这样的气候条件在整个地中海地区以及加利福尼亚大部份沿海地区、智利、澳大利亚东南部以及南非西开普省都可以找到。与海洋性气候条件相比，地中海气候额外的热量和阳光条件会赋予葡萄酒更为饱满的酒体，更成熟的单宁，更高的酒精度和更低的酸度。较少的降雨量对于葡萄的健康状况是一个有利因素，但也可能会导致干旱。
SOIL
Soil Composition
Soil sits above the underlying bedrock, and may be anything from a few centimetres to several metres deep. It is made up of tiny rock fragments of various sizes as well as larger stones or rocks, humus (organic matter) and plant nutrients.
土壤
土壤成分
土壤层位于下伏基岩之上，厚度在几厘米到几米之间。它是由不同规格的微小的岩石碎片，较大的石块以及腐殖质（有机物质）和植物营养成分组成。
Soil Particles, Stones and Rocks– These come from the underlying rock or later deposits laid on top of the rock and they give a soil its name; for example, limestone or slate. However, it is the size of the soil particles that is of most importance. Sand particles are the largest and they are relatively poor at holding water and plant nutrients. Clay particles are the smallest and have the best water and nutrient holding properties. The size of particle is not determined by the nature of the underlying rock, so it is possible to have a sandy or a clay limestone soil. The best soils are made up of a mixture of different particle sizes.
土壤颗粒、石块、岩石 – 这些来自于下伏基岩或是后来岩石顶部的沉积物决定了土壤的名称：例如，石灰岩和板岩。不过，最重要的还是土壤颗粒的大小。沙质颗粒是最大的，它们在保持水分和植物养分方面的能力相对较弱。黏土颗粒最小，有着最佳的水分和养分贮藏能力。颗粒的大小不是由下方的自然基岩的性质所决定，所以既可能有沙质的石灰石土壤，也可能有黏性的石灰石土壤。最好的土壤则是由不同大小土壤颗粒混合而成。
Humus– This is made up of decomposing plant and animal materials that are rich in plant nutrients and have excellent water retaining properties.
腐殖质 – 由动物和植物残骸分解而来，含有丰富的植物营养，并且有优异的持水性。
Plant Nutrients – These are elements such as nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium that are dissolved in the water in the soil. Some are the result of decaying plant materials or manure; others are dissolved mineral salts. Every part of the vine is made from the products of photosynthesis and plant nutrients.
植物养分 – 包括溶解在土壤水溶液中的氮、磷、钾等成分。有些是由植物或非粪肥腐烂而来；还有一些是溶解后的矿物盐。葡萄植株的每一个部分都是由光和作用的产物和植物养分构造而成。
The ideal soil for viticulture has relatively few nutrients and is well drained but able to store enough water to support the vine during the growing season.
葡萄栽培最理想的土壤应该含有相对较少的营养成分，有良好的排水功能，同时又能够给葡萄在生长季贮藏充足的水资源。
Soil and Water
Grape quality is affected by a soil’s ability to control water supply. Ideally a vineyard’s soil needs to provide a good supply of water early in the season in order to support strong growth, then reduce the supply after véraison inducing mild water stress in the vine, which encourages grape ripening. Water is stored in the soil by binding to clay particles or to humus. Water may also be accessible in the underlying rock. Sand particles and a high stone content ensure good soil drainage. If there is too much clay the soil can easily become waterlogged, which can kill the vine’s roots. If there is too much sand the soil will not be able to retain enough water and irrigation may be needed even in areas of high rainfall.
土壤和水分
土壤控制水分供给的能力影响到葡萄的品质。理想条件下，一个葡萄园的土壤需要在生长季的早期提供充足的水分，使葡萄能够保持旺盛的生长，在转色期后减少水分的供给而使植株处在轻微缺水的状态，这样就会促进葡萄果实的成熟。水分是通过吸附在粘土颗粒或是腐殖质上而贮藏在土壤中的。在下伏基岩中的水资源也有可能被利用到，沙质颗粒和石块含量多都能保证土壤有良好的排水性能。如果黏土的含量过高，土壤容易出现水涝，这会导致葡萄植株根系死亡。如果沙土的含量过高，土壤就不能贮藏足够多的水分，因此即使在降雨量丰富的地区也有可能需要进行灌溉。
There is no one ideal soil that meets these requirements. For example, the best sites in the Médoc have a gravelly sandy soil. Compared with other soils of a higher clay content, these soils can hold relatively little water per cubic metre but this is compensated by the depth of the soil, which means that the roots have access to enough water during the growing season.
符合所有这些要求的完美无缺的土壤并不存在。例如，梅多克(Médoc) 最出色的葡萄园有着多砾石的沙质土壤。与其它粘土含量更高的土壤相比，这些土壤每立方米可以贮藏的水分含量相对较少，但这可以由土壤的厚度来弥补，这也就是说在生长季内的葡萄的根系仍然可以获得充足的水资源。
Soil and Nutrients
The most important nutrients are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Vines do not need high levels of these nutrients in order to be able to thrive. If levels are too high, especially of nitrogen, the vine will grow too vigorously and produce a dense leafy canopy that shades the fruit too much. Over time the nutrients in the soil become depleted and the viticulturalist will need to replace them with natural or chemical fertilisers.
土壤和养分
最重要的营养成分是氮、磷和钾。葡萄并不需要高含量的营养成分，才能茁壮成长。如果含量过高，特别是氮含量过高，葡萄植株会长得过于茂盛，导致树冠叶片密集，过多遮挡了果实接收的阳光。随着时间的推移，土壤中的养分会耗尽，葡萄种植者就需要用天然或化学肥料进行补充。
The most common symptom linked to nutritional deficiency is chlorosis. The leaves turn yellow because they lose chlorophyll. The result is reduced photosynthesis, and the quality of the grapes and yield is affected. The most common cause of chlorosis is the inability of the vine to gain sufficient iron from the soil. This is commonly associated with soils with high limestone content such as those found in Champagne, Burgundy, Rioja and Barolo. The best solution to this problem is to use a rootstock that can tolerate lime soils.
养分缺失最常见的症状就是 chlorosis 黄化病。叶片因为缺少叶绿素而变黄，导致光合作用率下降，葡萄果实的品质和产量都会受到影响。黄化病最常见的原因就是葡萄植株无法从土壤中获得充足的铁元素。这种现象通常出现在那些土壤中石灰石含量高的地区，例如香槟区、勃艮第、Rioja 里奥哈以及 Barolo 巴罗洛。解决这个问题的最佳方式就是使用耐石灰石土壤的砧木品种。
The overall impact of vine nutrition on grapes and wine is poorly understood. For example, a Burgundian producer can make wines with different characteristics from different vineyards despite using identical grape varieties as well as viticultural and winemaking techniques throughout. But how far the difference can be attributed to nutrients rather than subtle variations in other factors such as climate, aspect and water supply cannot yet be determined for sure.
人们对葡萄植株中的营养成分含量对果实和葡萄酒的总体影响还是知之甚少。比如，一个勃艮第的葡萄酒种植者在不同的葡萄园种植完全相同的葡萄品种，使用完全相同的栽培方式和酿酒技术，酿出的酒仍然有着不同的风格特征。但是这些风格的差异到底有多少是由不同的养分含量造成，或是有其它因素例如气候、朝向或是水分供给造成，人们仍然无法确定。
TERROIR
This word refers to the ensemble of environmental influences that give a wine a sense of place. In its most narrow usage, it refers only to the effects of different soil structures within an area of unvarying climate. More usefully, it can be taken to cover the combined effects of aspect, slope, climate, weather and grape variety. These effects are usually subtle, but are sometimes dramatic, and with careful winemaking, they can be transposed into recognisable flavours and other components (such as tannins or acids) in a wine.
风土条件
这个词指的是赋予葡萄酒独特地方特征的总体自然环境。最狭义的定义仅仅指在天气条件不变的情况下，一个地区内不同的土壤结构造成的影响。更有实用意义的用法是，它还包含了葡萄园的朝向、坡度、气候、天气以及葡萄的品种这些因素所产生的综合影响。这些因素的影响通常都很细微，但有时候也会非常剧烈，经过细致的酿造过程，这些因素造成的影响都可以转化到酒中，以风味和其它要素（如单宁和酸度）的形式被人们感知。
Many wine characteristic that would once have been a clue as to the region of origin are strictly speaking aspects of viticulture of winemaking. These include choice of grape variety, use of oak, malolactic fermentation and lees stirring. The limits of how the wine style of one region can be copied in another, using an array of viticultural and winemaking techniques that includes canopy management, irrigation and must adjustments, are still being explored. It would be unreasonable to require all wines to express their geographical origins, if by doing so some were of poor quality or unpleasant. However, there is a danger that as techniques and expertise are shared throughout the world, international styles emerge and diversity is lost. Countering this trend, many wine producers are realising that the sense of place is a unique aspect of their wine that can be used to market it, and help it achieve higher prices. Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay can be made almost everywhere. Coonawarra Cabernet and Chablis cannot.
葡萄酒的特点中有许多是以前能够判断该款酒原产地的线索，但是这些特点严格意义上来说是栽培或酿造不同方面的体现。这包括葡萄品种的选择，橡木桶的使用，苹果酸乳酸发酵以及酒泥的搅动。通过使用很多不同的葡萄栽培与葡萄酒酿造技术（包括树冠管理、灌溉、葡萄醪调节等），一个地区葡萄酒的风格究竟多大程度上能复制到另一个地区，这个问题仍然还在在探索中。让所有的葡萄酒都表现出当地的地理环境特征是不切实际的，因为如果这样做，很多酒都会品质低下或是不受欢迎。然而，当技术条件和专业知识在全球共享后，有可能出现国际风格流行而使多样性丧失的风险。与这种趋势相反的是，许多葡萄酒酿造者意识到葡萄酒不同的地区特点是他们的独特优势，有利于市场营销和定更高的价格。赤霞珠和霞多丽几乎可以在世界上任何一个地方酿造，但库纳瓦拉的赤霞珠和夏布利的霞多丽却是独一无二的。
